More Information

Long-Shore Drift



Long-Shore drift is a processes where the movement of waves due to prevailing wind direction moves sediments including materials like clay and sand. The prevailing wind causes the swash (the incoming wave), to move in the direction of the wind, which moves the sediment in that direction. It is the process of Long-Shore drift that built the tombolo at Barrenjoey Head. This process is represented in the diagram to the right. 









Hydraulic Action

Hydraulic Action is a process of erosion that is caused by the movement of water against a surface of rock in the form of mechanical weathering. The movement of the water slowly breaks down the rock by wearing it down.  This process is outlined in the image to the right, where it can be seen that the movement of the waves is eroding the wall